Batang Ai
Batang Ai is located some 250km into the interior and
sits on the border with Kalimantan, Indonesia.
This area is the last area to
come under the control of the White Rajahs, with much resistance from the Sea
Dayaks (Ibans), which resulted in a massacre of 800 Ibans. James Brooke was
later accused of persecuting innocent people.
Sign Board |
A Commission of Inquiry was set
up in London to investigate these claims and eventually he was acquitted but
his reputation had been tarnished.
St.John who was appointed General Secretary
in 1847 felt that Brooke had been a little too high handed and ill-informed in
handling the natives in some aspects in order to gain peace and order in the
area but later came to his defence during the inquisition at the House of
Commons.
This ancestral home of the Ibans has long been
established. Before the hydroelectric dam was created, there were at least 40+
longhouses located along the river.
When the dam was completed, the water rose
by 60m flooding the low-lying areas; inundating some 8500h or 33sq miles of jungle.
The government had to relocate tenants from 26 longhouses to Lubok Antu and the
higher areas.
The hydroelectric dam now serves Kuching and surroundings with
uninterrupted supply of water. Being a water catchment, the government also
gazetted this area a National Park in 1991.
Batang Ai National Park itself is not easy to get to. For
the odd traveller, it's possible to take a bus from Kuching to Sri Aman and
then change for another bus to Lubok Antu.
From Lubok Antu, it's possible to
hire a boat to Batang Ai National Park but once there, no accommodation is
available. It may be a little easier to take a tour with the local travel
agents who can arrange accommodation at the Iban longhouses or if there is a
place to indulge a little, then perhaps try the Batang Ai Hilton for a change.
Staying at the Batang Ai
Wanting to visit the longhouses, we were determined to
make a trip to Batang Ai. The only accommodation we could get at the reservoir
is The Hilton Batang Ai.
Lobby |
Built in the style of traditional Iban longhouse
architecture, it was as far as we could get to staying at a longhouse without
having to arrange a tour package that included a stay at a 'real' longhouse.
In fact, we went there on a bed & breakfast package,
having purchased a very affordable priced package during one of the earlier
'Cuti-Cuti Malaysia' fairs. These travel fairs are particularly good where
local travellers and also expatriates staying in Malaysia or Singapore can pick
up some good deals for resorts and tours.
The 'Cuti-Cuti Malaysia' road shows
travel around Malaysia throughout the year and a number of resort operators /
travel agents participate in these fairs, which is promoted by Tourism
Malaysia. You may be pleasantly surprised at the packages offered. Just be on
the lookout in newspapers for ones coming to a town near you.
We arranged our van transfer at least 2 days in advance
from the counter at the Hilton Kuching. The ride costs RM110 return per person
and leaves Kuching Hilton for Batang Ai at about 8.00am.
This takes roughly
4hrs over pretty good roads. There is a short stop of about 15-20min in a small
place where a row of shops selling sundry and local produce such as Sarawak
pepper and the highland rice, a few shops also sell handicraft, mostly brought
over from Kalimantan and a few eateries make up the tiny community's town
centre.
Inside Resort |
Nice basket weaving for a fraction of the price in
Kuching. But remember to bargain. A little market in the morning is a nice
place to walk around. The ladies bring out their produce like little bags of
rice, perhaps access from their bountiful harvest this season.; and sometimes
even wild game meat are for sale at the market.
A suggestion though, perhaps you may want to stock up on
bottled water for your stay at the resort and this stop is the last place for a
last minute buy.
We arrived at the Batang Ai Dam and were ushered to the
guests' waiting area. Within 15min we were sent to the jetty and onto the boat
- speeding off to Batang Ai Hilton. The resort itself is well hidden from view,
which is a pleasant surprise.
Although the resort is made up of a complex of
longhouses, it really doesn't feel as though the resort is sprawling. In fact,
as first impression suggests, it's kind of snug and intimate.
Batang Ai Dam
Not long after check in, most guests seemed to have
disappeared only to later find out that they had lost no time in finding a
comfy spot by the pool with a good book, a bottle of sun block and a tall glass
of refreshing beer.
The pool isn't big but it certainly makes it a priority in
guests' daily routine whilst staying at the resort especially coming back after
an afternoon of hot and muggy day trekking.
Around the resort
For those not prepared to just sit out the day in the
cool shades of the pool area with a long cool cocktail or tropical fruit
juice... one could always take a walk round the grounds.
Of which I did.
Walking over a wooden bridge along the way, a gliding snake startled the
daylights out of me and I was pretty sure I did the same to it as it fell off
its perch.
Stunned for a few short seconds, it quickly recomposed itself and
slithered away into the undergrowth. A beautiful creature with distinct crimson
red and black stripes.
Trip Upriver
We wasted no time in making arrangement with the tour
desk, Borneo Adventure for a short adventure of our own. Since it was just us
girls, we teamed up with an English couple for a trip upriver. The guide,
Bayang his name, made all the arrangements for us.
Trip Upriver |
All we brought along on our
trip was some goodies for the people we were going to visit (snacks for the
children and some tobacco for the penghulu or tuah which means the headsman), a
hat, some sun block and our ponchos in case it rained.
The rest was left in good hands. Both Bayang and boatmen
were from the Lubok Antu area and were very familiar with the Batang Ai.
They
were born in this territory and we were going to visit their kinsmen of whom
they were to introduce us to The Ibans or Sea Dayaks.
The Iban people in batang ai
The Iban individuals are the biggest ethnic gathering of
Sarawak, one of the states in Malaysian Borneo. The Iban individuals were once
scandalously known for being head-hunters and furious warriors, yet they live
today as serene ranchers and seekers in the wide open.
They arrange their groups
in towns spinning around longhouses, a kind of lodging with numerous imparted
ranges for families to live and spots to lead every day exercises and routine
work important to live. A longhouse can have around 30 families.
This is a travel thought for the individuals who wish to
visit an Iban longhouse yet aren't quick to surrender an elevated expectations
administrations settlement. The Hilton is the main resort arranged on the
counterfeit pool of Batang Ai, Sarawak's rainforest National Park placed East
of Kuching, on the fringe with the
Indonesian Borneo (Kalimantan).
From that point you can do a day trek to one of
the Iban's longhouses found along the stream adjacent. It's a visit suitable
for families with kids too.
This is a private visit withdrawing from Kuching town and
incorporates transportation (vehicle and vessels) and a nearby individual as an
aide. Along the best approach to Batang Ai you will likewise stop by the Serian
business, visit a pepper homestead and see a greater amount of the Sarawak wide
open.
We propose to bring some little present for the
youngsters in the longhouse. We likewise propose to have with you suitable
shoes and outfit, mosquito and creepy crawly repellent, a waterproof shell in
the event of downpour, a cap and sunscreen, a spotlight and a bathing suit on
the off chance that you need to bathe in the waterway or the pool.
Amid the day
trek, bring just the base essential since the course to achieve the resort and
the longhouse is in part secured by a little vessel.
In the event that you have
an enormous gear you may abandon it at the Batang Ai Dock Storeroom (with
expense) or in your inn locker when you leave to Batang Ai.
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